Great Entrepreneurs Build Strong International Brand Names; Their Successors Greatly Damage Them

If you are of a certain age you will vividly rememberdeployment of assets. For a number of years Revlon
the following names: Helena Rubenstein, Faberge,held on as king of the category. However, the
Germain Monteil, Trigere, Revlon, Elizabeth Arden,inevitable slowly began to happen. Product launches
Max Factor, Schwinn, W. T. Grant, Montgomerybegan to stall. The Company began to follow
Ward and Chuck Taylor. Each name represented acompetitor's successes with me-too look-alike
hugely successful consumer product brand.products. Lancome, L'Oreal and Estee Lauder, under
Each of these brands was grown from thethe lead of entrepreneurial owners, became industry
entrepreneurial seed of a visionary. Unfortunately,innovators and assumed leadership in the space
each was subsequently abused, in several caseshistorically dominated by Revlon.
terminally, by non-visionary corporate bean counters.It has been 15 years since Revlon left the
A classic example is Revlon. Revlon is instructionaldepartment store business. Mr. Bergerac was
because it remains in the news, mostly for being aawarded a lucrative "golden parachute" when financier
tortured shell of it's former glorious self. Founded byRonald Pearlman took control of Revlon in a hostile
Charles Revson in the 1930's, Revlon was the largestcorporate takeover. Under Mr. Pearlman's ownership
cosmetic company in the world until the 1980's.Revlon has been a continual money loser. Product
Ultima, Norell, Charlie, Bill Blass and Eterna 27 wereinnovation is non-existent. Revlon's products are sold
subsidiary divisions under the Revlon corporatein drug chains and mass merchandisers and are
umbrella. The finest department and specialty storesregularly promoted with off price coupons. Charles
in the world fought to carry these upscale, elegantRevson would be livid. But he would not be alone as
products. Revlon was widely respected as the arbitera founding entrepreneur, nurturer of a great brand
of taste for fashion conscious women. Fire and Ice,and yet, unfortunately, a life's work diminished or
Lips and Tips and That Man are only a few examplesextinguished by successors lacking the innovative
of product marketing campaigns that were ubiquitousgene.
in consumer culture of the time.Great entrepreneurs like W. T. Grant, Montgomery
Charles Revson was one of the most famousWard and Pauline Trigere are rare. The ability to
businessmen of his time. Books were written aboutcreate, innovate, manage and grow a business is
his life, business strategy and the legendary brutalrarely found in a single package. Calvin Klein is a
bullying of his management personnel. He paid hiscreative entrepreneurial genius in the fashion world.
people exceedingly well and expected totalHis partner, Barry Schwartz is the unseen business
commitment to his company. The drive to staymanagement half of the Klein success. They
ahead of the competition by constant innovation andcompliment and balance each other. Whether their
creativity was all consuming for Mr. Revson. Nothingsuccessors can continue to provide clothing designs
was allowed to impede his constant pursuit ofthat the consumer will desire is an open question.
staying number one. His famous department storeIt was easier for Germain Monteil to build her skin
mantra, "success requires space, location andcare line from scratch than it was for The Squibb
demonstration" is a given followed by successfulDrug Company, after purchasing this growing brand,
merchants to this day. He once was asked how heto maintain it. Germain Monteil products are no longer
could justify charging $5 for a $.40 cent lipstick? Hissold. There are far too many such examples.
famous retort: "I don't sell lipstick, I sell hope" is anIn my work with entrepreneurs I am constantly
accurate reflection of an entrepreneur who knew hisconfronted with examples of ambition not paralleling
customer and how to please them.reality. As Clint Eastwood famously quipped in a Dirty
As Mr. Revson aged, he could see the need toHarry movie, "a man has to know his limitations". It is
address his succession as crucial to his legacy anda rare person that has the range of abilities to both
Revlon's future. After conducting a famous,launch and successfully build a product. Limits of ability
thoroughly documented executive search, he hiredor experience, however, do not close the door to
Michel Bergerac from IBM. Mr. Bergerac was a brilliantpotential success. The right partner, team or alliance
executive. He inherited a billion-dollar business withcan spell the difference between success and failure.
worldwide operations. Revlon dominated the male andCharles Revson was the whole package. His
female fragrance, color cosmetic and skin caresuccessors have proven themselves to be not of his
markets.caliber.
Sadly, the business culture of the 1980's and 1990'sI love to discuss specific opportunities with
did not value creativity and innovation as much asprospective entrepreneurs. Please call me at any time
asset deployment. Mr. Bergerac was excellent atto review your dreams.